I obtained these dimensions from real installations and day-to-day use. They’re ranges, not rigid rules—tune them to your height, room size, and appliances. All units are millimeters (mm). Heights are from the finished floor. Depth refers to the usable cabinet depth (doors not included).
the ick size snapshot
- Wardrobe: swing depth 550–600; sliding depth 600–650; long‑hang ≥1400; short‑hang ≥1000
- Shoe cabinet: depth 350; toe‑kick 180 high; tall‑boot bay ≥400
- Kitchen: prep counter 850–900; cooktop ≈80 lower; wall cabinet 500 above counter
- TV console: depth 250–350 (bedroom), 400–500 (living); outlets 700 high
- Bookcase: depth 350; shelf spacing ≤400
- Sideboard: depth 300–350 (small appliances), 350–450 (larger)
- Laundry/Balcony: stack height 1780; washer rear gap ≥100
Wardrobes (Closets)
What I prioritize: effortless reach, no snagging, and space that fits real clothes, not showroom fantasies.
Core dimensions
- Swing door width per leaf: about 450
- Sliding panel width: 600–900 (sweet spot for smooth glide)
- Depth: swing 550–600; sliding 600–650
- Full‑height doors: leave ≈30 total at top+bottom
- Pulls: place 120 from the door edge
Interior layout
- Long‑hang: ≥1400 (coats, dresses)
- Short‑hang: ≥1000 (jackets, shirts)
- Trouser rack: ≥800 (600 is too short—learned the hard way)
- Folded shelves: ≈400 spacing
- Drawers: ≈200 internal height (underwear, socks)
- Rod to top shelf: ≈70 (hangers slide cleanly)
- Top bedding zone: 400–500 high
| Type | Height / Spacing | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Long‑hang | ≥1400 | Down coats don’t drag |
| Short‑hang | ≥1000 | Everyday tops, blazers |
| Trousers | ≥800 | Avoid creases |
| Folded shelves | ~400 spacing | Five tees per stack |
| Drawers | ~200 internal | Use dividers |
| Rod clearance | ~70 to shelf | No snags |
My take: if you’re under 160 cm tall, drop rod height to 1450–1500; if you’re 175+ cm, 1500–1600 feels better. Sliding doors look sleek, but when space allows, I still prefer swing doors for sealing and longevity.
Shoe Cabinets
, want fast drop‑and‑go storage, room for sneaker boxes, and a spot for wet shoes.
- Depth: ≈350 (fits most shoeboxes)
- Open toe‑kick: ≈180 high (air‑dry and robot access)
- Tall‑boot bay: ≥400 high
- Tight hallways: tilt‑out depth ≈170, shelf tilt 8–12°
- Entry bench height: ≈420
| Layout | Depth / Height | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Standard shelves | 350 depth | Mixed shoes, boxes |
| Tilt‑out | 170 depth | Narrow corridors |
| Tall‑boot bay | 350–400 height | Knee/OTK boots |
| Open toe‑kick | 180 high | Wet shoes, easy cleaning |
Kitchen Cabinets
I design around how you cook. Prepping and stir‑frying live at different heights.
Heights and spacing
- Prep/wash counter: 850–900
- Cooktop counter: ≈80 lower than prep
- Wall cabinet bottom: ≈500 above the counter
- Base depth: 550–600; countertop thickness: 15–25
Drawer strategy
- 100: cutlery/tools
- 200: pots/pans
- 350: bulk bins/tall pots
Appliance notes
- Dishwasher opening: 600 wide; ≥600 clear in front to open
- Sink centerline to counter front: 120–150
- Steam/oven/microwave: prefer a tall cabinet per the manual for ventilation
| Zone | Dimension | Why it works |
|---|---|---|
| Prep | 850–900 | Neutral elbow angle |
| Cooktop | Prep − 80 | Less wrist strain |
| Wall cab gap | ~500 | Head clearance |
| Base depth | 550–600 | Full‑size cookware |
| Drawer stack | 100 / 200 / 350 | No wasted volume |
My take: if your back gets sore, prioritize the lower cooktop height—it’s the single change most clients thank me for.
TV Console
Cables vanish, gear breathes, and nothing wobbles.
- Top thickness: ≈25 (PS5, amps)
- Depth: bedroom 250–350; living 400–500
- Hidden cable chase: ≈100 depth
- Outlet height: ≈700 from the floor
- 55‑inch TV: screen bottom ≈600–700 from the floor
Bookcases
No sag, no bowed books, easy to light and clean.
- Depth: ≈the 350
- Shelf spacing: ≤400
- Tall doors (>1200): two push latches or strong magnets
- Lighting: 8–10 mm routed channel under shelf; accessible driver
| Shelf thickness | Max span | Tip |
|---|---|---|
| 18 mm | ≤800 | Add support for heavy books |
| 25 mm | 800–1000 | Still supports if fully loaded |
Supports / Buffets
Think about plugs and steam bsupportshe pretty stuff.
- Depth: 300–350 (coffee maker), 350–450 (rice cooker/microwave)
- Counter height: 850–1000
- Wall cabinet bottom: ≥500 above counter
- Power: at least two duplex outlets per 1200 width, plus one hidden below
- Steam control: pull‑out board or moisture‑resistant panel above cooker bay
Laundry / Balcony Cabinets
Durability beats symmetry here.
- Stacked washer/dryer allowance: ≈1780 high
- Rear clearance: ≥100 for hoses and heat
- Slim utility closet: depth ≈200 (cordless vacuum and tools)
- Sink/faucet: allow ≥300 height with under‑mount; rear splash ≥60
Build and Hardware Standards
- Doors: swing seals best; sliding saves space—keep each panel 600–900 wide
- Shelves: ≥18 thick; if span >800, add supports or move to 25 thick
- Back panels: full back ≥9 for rigidity; wall cabs use multiple anchors
- Expansion gaps: 5–10 to walls/ceiling; full‑height doors keep ≈30 total at top+bottom
- Lighting: motion‑activated linear LEDs 5–8 W/m in wardrobes, shoe cabinets, and sideboards
- Materials: low‑emission boards (E1/E0); stainless or zinc‑plated hardware with proper load ratings
Height Formulas I Use
- Prep counter ≈ (user height/2 + 50) cm → convert to mm
- Cooktop ≈ prep − 80
- Wardrobe rod ≈ 0.9 × user height
- Desk ≈ 0.45 × user height; chair ≈ 0.6 × desk
Hand‑off checklist (give this to your designer)
- Wardrobe: swing door 450; sliding 600–900; long‑hang ≥1400; short‑hang ≥1000; trousers ≥800; drawers 200; shelves 400; rod gap 70; pulls 120; full‑height door gap ≈30.
- Shoe cabinet: depth 350; toe‑kick 180; tall‑boot bay ≥400; tilt‑out 170 for tight halls.
- Kitchen: prep 850–900; cooktop −80; wall cab 500 above; base depth 550–600; drawers 100/200/350; sink 120–150 from front.
- TV console: top 25; depth 250–350 (bedroom) or 400–500 (living); chase 100; outlets 700 high.
- Bookcase: depth 350; shelf spacing ≤400; tall doors use two latches.
- Sideboard: 300–350 (small appliances), 350–450 (larger); counter 850–1000; wall cab ≥500; two duplex outlets per 1200 width.
- Laundry: stack 1780; rear gap ≥100; utility closet depth 200.
Final opinion
If you only do three things: set the right counter heights (prep vs. cooktop), keep expansion and service gaps (doors, appliances, plumbing), and spec sturdy shelves with sensible spans. Those choices deliver 90% of daily comfort. The rest—finishes and pulls—are the fun part.